Usually the RAILBRICKS staff have advice for our readers on LEGO trains.  This time, it's the other way around. I could use some advice on how to make my latest project work as well as possible!

I'm working on converting my 6-wide GG1 locomotive to 8-wide.You can see the 6-wide model in the picture below.

The GG1 was a massive locomotive, nearly 80 feet long with 10 axles in a 2-C-C-2 configuration. That notation means that it had leading and trailing unpowered trucks with two axles and two central trucks, each with three powered axles.

For my model, I took some design cues from the spectacular GG1 designed by Bob Hayes. My 6-wide model used 9V motors in the leading and trailing trucks, just like Bob's:

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=296786

I want the new 8-wide model to be about 50 studs long, powered by two PF XL motors (with associated gear), and using BBB medium wheels for the two center trucks. I want the articulation to look as good as possible, and I need to direct power to at least a portion of the axles. How would you approach this design dilemma?  Feel free to post comments with your suggestions!

Thanks!

Jordan

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Comments (2)

• |2010-03-07 22:40:05 Nathaniel Brill
  My normal approach to this problem is direct drive, with the motors connected to the wheels, but the wheel-motor unit free floating in the body. I would personally use 2 M motors in that arrangement for a build like this (for better speed), powering the C axles. There would be just enough room between them for the battery, which could lay on its side with the IR receiver above it, I think. That would give you maximum flexibility in designing the tapered ends.
  
  If you wanted to stick with XLs, you could probably lay them on their side with the drive shafts facing towards the middle, again to power the C axles and again with the motor in between them. I can't comment on what kind of room you'd have to gear up the XLs for better speed without doing a lot of testing, though. Still, the GG1 is one of my favorites, and a good challenge to do well in Lego. I've been contemplating doing one in Conrail livery for a while. Looking forward to seeing yours.
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• |2010-03-06 21:38:21 Hugh
  if it were me i would use a 3 sets of chains to distribute the power.
  2 of the chain systems will be vertical with the middle system linking the two mounted horizontally. this will allow the train to pivot in the middle. id put the motors on the middle chain. i dont know if you would have enough room to put pretty skin over the top of it but it should work.
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